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Long held plans for a weekend on Skye came to realisation in early September, predictably accompanied by Atlantic low pressure systems sweeping across the north west Highlands! The view from the Sligachan campsite on the Friday morning was one of mizzle obscuring Sgurr nan Gillean and the Bhasteir hills. An all too familiar sight over the years. After a luxurious Trangia cooked breakfast we headed over to Glen Brittle planning to walk up to Coire Lagan in the hope of a break in the weather and making some progress on the surrounding peaks.

Gearing up at the car park the midges made the most of their breakfast before chasing us through the campsite and up towards the corrie. The mist began to move on the Sgurr na Ciche face as we gained height and after a while we spotted the summits through a tantalising break.

Coire Lagan peaks Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, Sgurr Alasdair & Sgurr Sgumain appear through a break in the mist

Full of hope for clearer conditions at the lochan we decided to make for the North Ridge of Sgurr Sgumain a Moderate climb most easily reached by a traverse from around a third of the way up the Great Stone Chute scree before it narrows. The shifting scree on the traverse required care and gave us a taster of loose rock above. We joined the ridge a little above the bottom of the route having had too much up in our traverse!

The North Ridge of Sgurr Sgumain, Sgurr Alasdair, Sgurr Thearlaich illustrated. Photo taken from the slopes of Sgurr Dearg July 2008

Broken rocks and scree led to the base of a steeper rock band barring easy progress. The route follows the left most arete of this band and in dry conditions this pitch of around 20 metres might provide pleasant climbing but on the day in question was dripping with water. Its amazing the number of times that the Cuillin’s wonderful grippy gabbro turns out actually to be fine grained, slippery when wet basalt and this was one such section.

Scanning ahead for loose rocks on the North Ridge of Sgurr Sgumain!

Tom led the pitch steadily finding a little protection and Gavin and I followed up. I wasn’t sorry not to have been leading until a few metres below the stance the rope above dislodged a football sized boulder. Thanks to a rapid warning from above I got in close to the rock in time to receive a glancing blow. Initially I thought to my shoulder but without a mark it must have been to my sack. I watched the rock plunge onto and down the scree below, pleased to remain intact and in contact with the cliff myself.

Above the climbing and scrambling became much more enjoyable following a lovely gabbro ridge without great exposure. In the upper section it steepened then turned to lead almost directly to the summit of Sgurr Sgumain. By this time it was apparent the earlier promise of improved weather was unlikely to materialise as we were well buried in moist cloud. We pushed on to Bealach Sgumain and up the South West Ridge of Sgurr Alasdair via the chimney on the south face dodging the difficult pinnacled section.

Approaching the summit of Sgurr Alasdair by the south-west ridge

By the time we’d left the summit of Alasdair and descended the short distance to the top of the Great Stone Chute the rain was picking up so we dropped off happy that we’d made the most of the conditions.

That evening in the bar we had a good chat with a couple of Swiss guys wondering about the possibility of a ridge traverse. Given the conditions and forecast we didn’t encourage them and poured over maps and guides with them. We weren’t too sure how hardcore they were but when we converted the Thearlaich-Dubh gap V. Diff grade into the French system they were almost dismissive! As it happened the cloud, rain and wind the following day put them off completely and they went sightseeing to the north instead.

The following day the weather was remarkably similar, dry at Sligachan, mizzle over the Cuillin interspersed with heavier showers moving up Glen Brittle. We decided on the relatively low level scramble, The Spur (Grade 2) on the north flank of Sgurr an Fheadain, best known for its conspicuous Waterpipe Gully that bisects the north west face of the hill.

On the lower slabs of the The Spur, Sgurr an Fheadain a Grade 2 scramble

The lower slabs gave pleasant scrambling even in the damp, though care was needed to pick out the grippy gabbro. Higher up on the ridge to Sgurr an Fheadain there were short steps of good scrambling and towards the top spectacular views of Waterpipe Gully.

The top of Waterpipe Gully, Sgurr an Fheadain

From the summit of Sgurr an Fheadain we dropped down to the bealach between Coire a’ Mhadaidh and Coir a’ Tairneilear and then followed the ridge up towards Bidein Druim nan Ramh over interesting scrambly ground.

The summit of Sgurr an Fheadain on the left and the continuation of the ridge to Bidein Druim nan Ramh (Grade 2)

We avoided Druim nan Ramh with a traverse to the east beneath the north peak to Bealach Harta, the going was easier than it had looked from a distance and the weather improved somewhat with some brightness and a view down to Coruisk breaking through on the bealach.

Traverse To Bealach Harta beneath the north peak of Bidein Druim nan Ramh

Given the improved weather we decided to go for a circuit to the north taking in An Caisteal and Bruach na Frithe on the main ridge. As we ascended the ridge towards An Caisteal we were treated to a stunning view back to Bidein Druim nan Ramh, a tricky and inspiring section of the main Cuillin ridge.

Bidein Druim nan Ramh from the south ridge of An Caisteal

The summit ridge of An Caisteal provides interesting going with 3 gaps requiring negotiation. The 2nd and 3rd are quite interesting!

The South Ridge of An Caisteal

Beyond the summit of An Caisteal the north ridge descends to a narrow bealach before Sgurr na Bairnich. The descent starts easily enough but leads down to a steep drop into the bealach itself which is graded Moderate. Not knowing this section of ridge we were fairly cautious, opting to down climb with some protection in place. In the event it was tricky in descent but the holds were good.

Down climbing the steep Moderate section of the North Ridge of An Caisteal

As soon as we’d negotiated the step into the bealach the rain came on and we trudged through the wetness without significant difficulty on to Bruach na Frithe. With the weather deteriorating further we made a hasty retreat down the easy north west ridge and back to Glen Brittle drying out again once we’d dropped off the mountain proper. Beers and curry in Portree beckoned!

Glamaig & Beinn Dearg Mhor from Sligachan Campsite

Sunday morning was windy and the Black Cuillin were buried in cloud. The Red Cuillin hills looked more inviting and being abandoned by my compatriots who were returning south I headed off for a circuit of the Glamaig hills.

Beinn Dearg Mhor & Glamaig from Beinn Dearg Mheadhonach

The Black Cuillin remained deep in cloud throughout the day but Glamaig and Beinn Dearg Mhor remained largely clear. The hills are a good rough walk with some entertainment for the scree runner and are no doubt excellent viewpoints in better weather.

Beinn Dearg Mhor & Beinn Dearg Mheadhonach from the slopes of Glamaig

Descending the steep screes on the west side of Glamaig I wasn’t jealous of the Glamaig hill racers who annually run up the mountain by this route, the fastest managing the round trip from Sligachan to the summit and back in around 45- 50 minutes (the record was set in 2012 at 44 mins 27 secs by Finlay Wild).

Jason Bonniface, 25/09/2012